Travel Guide ITACARE, BAHIA
Guide to Itacare, Bahia
Itacare is situated along the northernmost portion of Bahia’s Cocoa Coast, just below the Marau Peninsula, in a region that showcases just about every feature you would imagine in a tropical paradise. 
Unspoiled beaches are nestled between mountains inside of preserved Atlantic Rainforest, and most can only be accessed by trails that run alongside rivers and waterfalls. Each beach is distinctly different, and much like great works of art, there is no “best”. Itacare’s diverse geography and natural beauty makes it a great all-around destination for families or groups with varied interests, such as eco-tourism, yoga and spiritual retreats, sports and adventure travel.
The Portuguese first colonized Itacare in 1532, and while primarily a small fishing village, it became a refuge for Dutch pirates, slave traders and later on, wealthy cocoa barons. It fell into obscurity in the late 1960’s due to a wide sweeping plague that nearly wiped out all of Bahia’s vast cocoa plantations. Because of its difficult access, it remained anonymous to tourism for the next few decades, except to hardcore Brazilian surfers and nature lovers. In an effort to expand tourism in the region, the Bahia government paved a road from Ilheus to Itacare in the late 90’s. Since then it has become one of Bahia’s hippest destinations, attracting travelers through word of mouth from every walk of like and from every corner of the world.
The center of Itacare is an old fishing village inside of a natural harbor, with the historic Rio de Contas to the north and all of its beaches to the south. Despite being a small town, it has a modern infrastructure compared to other Bahian towns, and everything is within easy walking distance, including restaurants, nightlife, most of its hotels and three of its beaches.
One of Itacare’s greatest attributes is the eclectic mix of locals and visitors. Here you’ll find native fisherman, the surfer set, Brazilian rastafarians, European jetsetters and backpackers, hippies, expats, nature lovers and followers of most spiritual practices. 
Acceptance of everyone is the norm, and any kind of racism or intolerance does not go over well here. The shops, restaurants and nightlife are reflective of this radical mix of cultures, making it all the more interesting. Just take a walk down the main street, Rua Pedro Longo, at night… the wide variety of sights, music, and the aromas coming from local and ethnic restaurants makes it difficult to choose where to stop!
Things to See & Do in Itacare
These are the more popular tours and activities in this region, some are free and some are paid tours that you can book directly with the provider. If we provide you with a link, it's because we know them and trust them!
Hiking Trails to the Beaches
Hiking the trails to the more remote beaches of Itacare is an absolute must, and the only way to appreciate the Atlantic Rainforest. Rivers and waterfalls make for great swim stops in the heat, and arriving at one of Itacare's beaches after a long hike is an awesome reward!
Whitewater Rafting
Rafting along the Rio de Contas is one of best all day organized tours out of Itacare. Besides being incredibly beautiful, there are several class III and class IV rapids, and there is also optional zip-lining and rappelling at one of the stops. Transportation to the rafting company is included in the price of the tour. Check here for more information on rafting...
In a survey that ranks the best beaches in Bahia, five beaches along the Itacare coast ranked within the top twenty. That's a pretty good statistic for a state with almost 600 miles of coastline! We have an article in progress about beaches of Itacare, but for now, here is a complete list from north to south.
Pontal- Concha
- Corais
- Resende
- Tiririca
- Costa
- Ribeira
- Siriaco
- Prainha
- Sao Jose
- Arruda
- Jeribucacu
- Engenhoca
- Hawaizinho
- Itacarezinho
- Patizeiro
How to Get to Itacare
Traveling by bus from Ilheus to Itacare is quick and straight forward, but if you are coming from Salvador, there are a few tips and tricks that can save you a lot of time and headache.
Ilheus to Itacare by Bus
Step 1: Taxi to the Ilheus bus terminal (rodoviaria)
If you're coming from the airport, you'll need to spend a little for a taxi to get to the bus station. It's a ten minute drive and costs 30 reais on average. Once at the Rodoviaria, look for either of these 2 companies: Rota, which has hourly buses to Itacare until 10 pm, or Aguia Branca, which has less frequent departures but the buses are nicer.
All of the pousadas located in the center of Itacare are within easy walking distance of the Itacare bus terminal.
Duration: about 1:45
Cost: between 13 and 18 BRL
Salvador to Itacare by Bus
Step 1 - Get to the main ferry boat terminal (Terminal Maritimo)
* Do not take the passenger ferry that leaves from the Mercado Modelo! You need to take the ferry to Bom Despacho where the bus terminals are.
From Pelourinho and downtown – Take the famous Lacerda Elevator from the Praça Tomé de Sousa in the upper city down to the Mercado Modelo, and from there take a short taxi ride to the Ferry Boat terminal (Terminal Maritimo). You might be tempted to walk there, but you shouldn't (for varioius reasons).
From the Salvador airport – There is a direct local bus that goes from the Salvador airport and passes in front of the ferry boat terminal (Terminal Maritimo). You should only take the bus if you can communicate at least at a bare minimum in Portuguese… a little goes a long way here. DO NOT take the local bus that requires a bus change in downtown Salvador. If in doubt, take a regular taxi from the airport, which costs between 65 and 85 reais depending on the time of day.
Step 2 - Ferry Crossing from Salvador to Bom Despacho, Itaparica
Once at the terminal just follow the signs to "Bilhetes" to buy your tickets. The ferries leave on the hour every hour on the hour, and you will be crossing the scenic Bay of All Saints to the island of Itaparica and the port town of Bom Despacho. It's safe, fun, and a great way to meet people, even if you don't speak Portuguese! Current prices are R$ 4.80 during the week and R$ 6.00 on weekends, and the crossing takes one hour.
Important! Do not take the ferry that leaves from the pier next to Mercado Modelo. Since you are taking a bus, you need to go the "Terminal Maritimo", and take the ferry that goes to Bom Despacho where the bus terminal is located.
Step 3 - Bus from Bom Despacho to Camamu
After docking in Bom Despacho, you will descend the boat ramp and immediately see the ticket booths and the buses. Go to the bus company Aguia Branca, which has two direct buses per day to Itacare (09:00 and 13:00), or Cidade Sol, which offers serveral buses per day (08:00, 11:00, and 15:00). If there is no direct bus to Itacare, buy a ticket on the first available bus to the city of Valenca or Camamu with the bus company Cidade Sol. From there you will find more frequent connections to Itacare.
Duration: around 5 hours on a direct bus, longer with bus changes.
Cost: 44 to 50 BRL
Airport Transfers & Taxi
From Ilheus - From the airport, the easiest way to get to Itacare is by taxi transfer, with door to door service from airport to hotel.
- Travel time from Ilheus (by car): about 1:20, depending on traffic in Ilheus
- Cost: Average 180 BRL
From Salvador - If you are coming from Salvador Airport or the city (including the Pelourinho), you should book your transfer to start from the island of Itaparica, on the other side of the Baia de Todos os Santos. Getting there is easy, even for non-Portuguese speakers. There are two main ferry crossing, and you should use the ferry terminal that is next to the famous Mercado Modelo, with hourly crossings to the town of Mar Grande on Itaparica. Starting your transfer from there will save you time and money, and it's a pleasant and scenic boat ride as well!
- Travel time from Itaparica (by car): 4 1/2 to 5 hours
- Average cost: 550 BRL
Get a quote for a private transfer from Salvador to Itacare
Where to Stay in Itacare
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