Guide to Boipeba Island
Nobody can read minds, but when people close their eyes and try to picture a quiet, tropical paradise, it probably looks a lot like Boipeba. Warm, calm and crystal clear waters surround Boipeba to the east, with a maze of rivers and dense mangrove forests surrounding the rest of the island. Uninterrupted Mata Atlantica (Atlantic rainforest) and palm groves hug its 20 kilometer reef-lined coast, and twice a day the receding tide creates perfectly calm, transparent aquariums that snorkelers can share with the tropical fish. There are no cars, no mega-resorts, no banks and no stress. Everything about Boipeba is authentic Bahia, including the natives, the architecture, the food and the cultural events. If you are looking for a hopping nightlife with occasional visits to pretty beaches, go to Morro de Sao Paulo. But if you are looking to wake up and go to bed with the sun, not wear shoes and enjoy all that unspoiled nature has to offer, visit Boipeba.
Most of the Dende Coast has remained unspoiled because of difficult access, and thankfully, Boipeba is no exception. It is located on the southern end of the archipelago of Tinhare, just below its more famous neighbor, Morro de Sao Paulo. Boipeba’s 20 kilometers of coastline is divided into 7 separate beaches, each one unique and no less beautiful than the next. Two of Boipeba’s beaches, Morere and Cueira, are consistently listed among the best beaches in Brazil, although this distinction is really splitting hairs when one is on an island this beautiful.
The original settlement of Velha Boipeba, the principal village on the island, dates back to 1535. Most of the island’s residents live here, along with most of the island’s pousadas. The Centro is paved with cobblestone streets and well lit at night, with street vendors, shops and restaurants that were invisible during the day. There is no crime here and the locals are extremely friendly, and the only minor annoyance might be a pushy tour vendor. During the day, the most sought after beach is Morere, consistently ranked in the top 10 beaches in all of Brazil. The rustic beach restaurants serve some of simplest, yet tastiest seafood dishes in all of Bahia.
These are the beaches of Boipeba Island from north to South.
Praia Boca da Barra
Boca da Barra is the first beach on Boipeba, and the closest to the main village of Boipeba Velha. This is where the Rio do Inferno (River of Hell) meets the Atlantic, and it also serves as Boipeba’s main port. Restaurants and shops line the river’s edge, and it’s the best beach if you prefer more crowds.
Praia Outeiro & Pedrinhas
Outeiro Beach is a continuation of Boca da Barra, with some great beachfront hotels. Great for swimming, with several natural pool formations during low tide. Just next to Outeiro is Pedrinhas, with rock formations that make for some great photo ops.
Praia do Tassimirim
Tassimirim is characterized by long stretches of palm trees, with calm waters lined by coral reefs. The tidepools are great for snorkeling, and there are a few beach huts serving traditional Bahian food and beer. It’s also the main spawning beach for marine turtles on Boipeba.
Praia da Cueira
Considered one of the most beautiful beaches of Boipeba, Cueira Beach sits inside a bay with crystal clear, warm waters and long stretches of preserved coconut groves. Here you’ll find a well-known shack that serves its famous lobster with a butter sauce. At the southern end of the beach is the picturesque, mangrove lined Rio do Oritibe.
Praia do Moreré
Ranked in the top five beaches of Brazil (Guia Quatro Rodas), Morere is the most famous beach on Boipeba. The transparent waters and coral reefs make Morere one of Brazil’s most beautiful natural aquariums, with diverse species of tropical fish. Pure white sand, blue waters and Atlantic Rainforest combine to make Morere a once in a lifetime beach experience. There are a few great restaurants here too!
Praia do Bainema
At the south end of Morere begins a beautiful trail lined with various types of fruit trees that leads to Bainema Beach. It’s one of Boipeba’s longest stretches of beach, lined with coconut groves and dense Mata Atlantica. This isolated beach is a target for hard-core beach hikers and is a 2 ½ hour hike from Velha Boipeba.
Ponta dos Castelhanos
Boipeba's southernmost beach is wild and deserted, characterized by an extensive reef system and dense vegetation. The remains of one Brazil’s oldest shipwrecks, the Madre de Dios, is still visible, making it a popular destination for divers.
Cova da Onça
Cova da Onça (Lion's Cove) is the southernmost fishing village on Boipeba, and more interesting culturally than for its natural beauty. It has become an obligatory lunch stop for the tour boats, and the crowds might be a turn off for some. Great stop after a long hike, though, And the people are really friendly!
Boipeba does not have the infrastructure of Bahia's top destinations, which is a blessing for those who love nature. This also means that the best things to see and do on Boipeba are free, with the exception of some pretty cool boat tours.
Hike the Beaches
If you don't spend at least one day hiking the beaches of Boipeba, you're missing out. Hike for as long as you can, at least to Morere, then take one of the bus-tractors back to the town.
Boat Tours
There are several types of boat tours available, all leaving from Velha Boipeba. Do at least one trip on the Atlantic side that includes snorkeling on the Morere reefs. Another interesting option is taking a slow boat up the Rio de Inferno with a visit to historic Cairu and Brazil's oldest convent.
Morro de Quebra Cu (Butt Buster Hill)
Take a short hike up to Boipeba’s highest point for sunrise or sunset. With great views of the island, it got its name because it’s easy to slip in the sand on the way down!
Before choosing a place to stay on Boipeba, it’s important to understand the differences between the two main villages on the island, Velha Boipeba and Morere. Velha Boipeba is the main entry point onto the island, and contains the majority of the hotels and pousadas, restaurants and shopping. There is no nightlife to speak of, but most of the town’s residents and visitors gather in the town center at night to eat and drink, shop, or just socialize. Morere is more remote, accessible by a one hour walk or by the island’s only public transportation, the tractor-bus. Some of Boipeba’s best hotels are located here, and it’s the best choice for those who appreciate nature and don’t mind the isolation and a little extra travel time.
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Boipeba is close to Salvador as the crow flies, but getting there involves several types of transportation and the better part of a day, unless you opt for an air taxi from Salvador.
Video of Boipeba, Bahia
We found this great little video on Boipeba that does a good job showing the highlights of Boipeba. This is not our content, we are merely sharing it under YouTube's Fair Use policy.